Nebbiolo, one of the most renowned and celebrated Italian grape varieties, finds its home in the Piedmont region. It shares this home with another very flavorful and interesting red grape variety: Barbera. As this year’s Sommeliers Choice Award winners show, Nebbiolo remains a hot varietal for top restaurant wine programs and remains well respected by top sommeliers. 

Piedmont is a wine region in northwestern Italy, widely considered one of the most important and prestigious places for producing high-quality wines in the world. Although Piedmont boasts many grape varieties, we will focus on two of its most relevant red varieties: Nebbiolo and Barbera. 

Nebbiolo: The King of Piedmont

Although it represents less than 10% of the total vineyard area in Piedmont, Nebbiolo is the region's most important variety. This is because it is considered one of the finest and noblest Italian varieties, and it is also one of the oldest. 

The name "nebbiolo" is believed to come from the Italian word "nebbia," meaning fog, due to the mist that covers the region's hills in autumn. Pliny the Elder also named it Nubiola in 909, derived from the Latin "Nebula" (fog). 

Owing to its early budding, late ripening, high sensitivity to spring frosts and rains, and its specific climate and soil demands, the cultivation of this grape variety is limited to certain areas of Piedmont.

Nebbiolo can show diverse expressions in the glass depending on its specific terroir. It is generally characterized by its distinctive color and its intense and complex aroma, evoking notes of red fruits, orange peel, roses, violet, spices, leather, truffle, and tobacco. On the palate, it is a dry wine with great acidity and firm tannins. For pairings, Victoria Moor, writing in the Telegraph, notes that “tannic, high in acidity and gorgeously perfumed, Nebbiolo is brilliant with creamy or cheesy dishes. It works well with mushroom and herbal flavors too, so it was a hit with chicken fricassee with morels and guinea fowl with porcini bread sauce.” 

Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Perno imported by the very knowledgeable importer Greg Linn stood out with perfumed floral aromas with rich intensity and notes of cherry, roses, and leather.  Winning Double Gold, this elegant wine has well-managed tannins and a lingering finish, definitely suitable for aging. Obviously, a champion of Nebbiolo, Linn says that Barbaresco and Barolo are “the Burgundies of Italy.” 

Another Double Gold Winner was the San Biagio Sorano MGA Barolo DOCG from UVA Imports. This 2016 vintage wine already has the age needed to push sales. The judges noted its “dried and fresh red fruit” alongside orange, and cinnamon stick spice with balanced acidity, integrated tannins, and a lingering, elegant finish. 

Image: 2024 Sommelier Choice Award Winner - San Biagio Sorano MGA Barolo DOCG

Due to its structure and complexity, Nebbiolo wines can age for decades and improve over time.

Barolo DOCG and the smaller Barbaresco DOCG appellation are some of the best Nebbiolos from Piedmont and are considered among the finest wines in Italy. Though both are made from the same grape, the two DOCGs differ. As Food & Wine recently noted, “Traditionally, Barolo has been referred to as the king of wines, and Barbaresco as its queen.” The magazine interviewed Quality Branded’s wine and beverage director Meng Chiang, who oversees the wine list at San Sabino in New York. Barolo’s high altitude encourages slow ripening, which leads to wines that are more structured, and lighter in color, with high levels of both tannins and acidity. 

Meng stated: “The differences in soil composition, as well as aging requirements, have prompted many to think of Barolo as more muscular and more masculine, and Barbaresco as more elegant and feminine, but this generalization has become more or less obsolete over time — it's the winemaker and their vision of Nebbiolo that actually matters.”  

That couldn’t be truer. Consider two more hot Barolo Nebbiolos. The 2019 Gianni Gagliardo Barolo imported by Carolina Wine Brands USA offers a cherry-cola and rose petal nose with prune, leather, and curing spices, balanced tannins, and a classic finish of cherry, roses, and leather. By contrast the 2019 Beni di batasiolo - Barolo D.O.C.G. from Batasiolo USA exudes captivating aromas of desiccated cranberry and red florals with earthy mineral notes leading to a palate of cherry, roses, and leather, finishing with grippy tannins and a lingering finish. And Linn’s 2021 Barbaresco Estate, winning 95 points, offers perfumed and floral with dried cherry, strawberry, and hints of amaro. This Nebbiolo is structured with elevated acidity, tannin, and alcohol, delivering a balanced, approachable style associated with Barbaresco. 

Other winning Italian Nebbiolo wines include: 

- 2021 Luca Leggero 

- Greg Linn’s 2021 Langhe Nebbiolo

- Tenuta Santa Caterina "Illegale" Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore DOC 

Barbera: The Versatile Grape 

Source: Consorzio di tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani

Barbera is one of the most popular grape varieties in Italy. Known for its versatility, it has become one of the most widely cultivated varieties in Piedmont. 

Although the first mentions of this variety date back to the 18th century, it was not until after the Phylloxera crisis that producers paid attention to this grape. This was thanks to its ability to achieve complete ripeness without losing acidity and for its pleasant sensory characteristics.

The Barbera grape produces wines with high acidity and low to moderate tannins. Wines made with Barbera are known for their fruity flavors of cherry, blackberry, and plum. This grape is mainly used to produce dry, fresh, and fruity red wines, although some producers have opted for an aged style that imparts notes of vanilla and chocolate. It is also used to make sparkling and lively wines. 

Greg Linn shows off his knowledge in the Barbera category as well. The 2021 Barbaresco Meruzzano is perfumed and floral with notes of cherry, roses, and leather. Still young, this wine has firm yet integrated tannins and a lingering finish, showing class and approachability for the price point. It won Double Gold. Another example, which won 95 points, is the 2021 Beni di batasiolo - Barbera d'Alba D.O.C. Sovrana from Batasiolo USA. Pout this wine into a big glass and aromas of cherry cola transition to a complex palate of red plum and fruit punch, finishing with well-integrated flavors and outstanding balance. 

Some of the main denominations of origin related to the Barbera varietal are Barbera D'Asti DOCG, Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG, and Nizza. Indeed, a silver winner was the 2021 Barbera d'Asti DOCG from Bricco dei Guazzi, which offers thyme, cedar, and bramble aromas with cedar, thyme, raisin, and berry bramble flavors, finishing with a robust, earthy complexity. 

Piedmont’s Nebbiolo and Barbera continue to captivate the wine world, maintaining their prestigious status and showcasing diverse, high-quality expressions. Whether it’s the regal Nebbiolo with its complex aromas and aging potential or the versatile Barbera with its fruity, fresh profile, Piedmont’s red varietals offer something for every palate. These award-winning wines not only reflect the rich heritage and meticulous craftsmanship of the region but also demonstrate why Piedmont remains a cornerstone of fine wine production. As Nebbiolo and Barbera continue to trend among top sommeliers and wine enthusiasts, their timeless appeal and evolving styles ensure they will remain favorites in the world’s best wine programs.

Header Image Source: Vincarta