Bolgheri, a relatively small yet highly influential wine region on the Tuscan coast, has captivated the global wine community with its exceptional wines and rich history. The rise of Bolgheri can largely be attributed to the pioneering efforts of Sassicaia, a wine that has set the standard for excellence. In this insightful conversation with Riccardo Binda, Director of the Bolgheri Consorzio, we explore the factors that make Bolgheri wines stand out, the unique terroir that shapes them, and the innovative practices propelling the region into the future. From the influence of the Mediterranean climate to the strategic focus on quality and sustainability, Bolgheri represents a fascinating blend of tradition and modernity.

Sassicaia is often credited with putting Bolgheri on the global wine map. How has the creation and success of Sassicaia influenced the region's wine production and reputation?

Well, Sassicaia was the wine that shaped the future of Bolgheri.  Before the intuition of Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta created such a wine, Bolgheri was not known at all for wine production. Sassicaia is acknowledged to be the forefather of Bolgheri wines, and that is why in 2013  all other producers agreed to give it its own DOC, Bolgheri Sassicaia.

Image: Bolgheri, Italy.

How does the Cabernet Sauvignon from Bolgheri compare to its counterparts in Bordeaux and California, and what unique characteristics does it exhibit due to Bolgheri's terroir?

First, it’s important to note that Bolgheri and Bordeaux are not comparable at all, for one is just a small appellation, and the other one is a whole region, with more than 60 AOC. Napa itself is more than 10 times the size of Bolgheri, and it has different  AVAs as well. To give an idea in terms of size, Bolgheri is pretty much as big as Pauillac or Oakville in terms of hectares. That said, the main difference is of course the climate. Even with all their multiple inner differences both Bordeaux and Napa, each in its own way, are influenced by the ocean whereas Bolgheri is influenced by the Mediterranean Sea, which is much more temperate and brings less differences between seasons. The wines from Bolgheri showcase in general very smooth and round tannins, with good acidity and nuances that beyond varietal features often remember typical Mediterranean bush aromas such as myrtle, sage, juniper, thyme, etc, and iodine sensations, which are less commonly found in Cabernet or Merlot from other areas. 

Image: Bell'Aja wine estate, Borgo San Felice, Bolgheri.

According to you, which are some of the most iconic wines from Bolgheri? What do you think makes them stand out in the crowded landscape of fine wines?

If we look at the Liv-EX the most common labels we find from Bolgheri producers are Sassicaia, Ornellaia, and Masseto. In 2020 both three were in the top ten ranking, making Bolgheri the area in the world with the most wines, before historical regions such as Burgundy, Champagne, and Bordeaux. Nobody could describe well why this happened in such a short time; I think that two factors are quite important. Firstly, these three labels were born before the 90s a time when the Italian wine world was starting to make a huge leap forward in terms of quality. Even if there were other renowned Italian labels as well back then, these three wines, along with a few others in Italy, were among the few Italians that were made using grapes that everybody knew worldwide,  but with a new and authentic interpretation. We could say that the Bordeaux blend is the English language for the wine world, meaning that every consumer can relate to and approach it. If you have to promote Sangiovese or Nebbiolo wines to someone who doesn’t know Italian wines at all you will probably need some contextualization first, but you need much less of that if you want to promote Bolgheri, because the market already knows the grapes. That is why for example super Tuscan wines in general performed better than traditional  Tuscan appellations. The second factor is that all Bolgheri producers, since the beginning, focused on quality, and since its foundation, Bolgheri has been known for high-quality wines. 

Image: Bolgheri DOC comes together. All producers gather for the 25th anniversary of the DOC.

Bolgheri’s terroir is known for its unique microclimate and soil diversity. Can you tell us more about how these factors influence the flavor profiles and characteristics of your wines?

The area is a natural theater with the Colline Metalifere (hills with a rich variety of iron compounds) to the east that gradually slope downwards towards the coastline. Thick forests cover the surrounding hillsides maintaining and protecting the rich and complex ecosystem. The hillsides slowly descend towards the central arena; an area of flat terrain where most of the vineyards grow. Bolgheri faces center stage: the Tyrrhenian Sea dominated by the Tuscan archipelago with Corsica visible on the horizon. Sea breezes, especially those channeled through the Tuscan archipelago, keep the area cool all year round providing an average yearly temperature of 16.5 C, about one degree lower than other coastal zones around. This phenomenon imparts greater freshness and elegance to the wines. Consistently windy weather, at least 250 days per year,  has another beneficial effect on the vines’ health; breezes aerate the vineyards reducing the levels of humidity and limiting the threat of fungal diseases. The amount of brightness and the resulting solar radiation index (which are determining factors for the vines’ photosynthetic activity) are ideal. The area’s latitude contributes on one side, while on the other, sunlight is intensified as it is reflected off the shimmering sea, falling at an angle that is optimal for the vineyards. Annual rainfall is in the range of approximately 600 ml per year, well distributed over the months, more frequent during the vegetative phases, and sporadic during maturation. Soils are quite deep therefore the vines’ roots can find underground water resources, even during years that present drought conditions. Geologically, Bolgheri’s terroir has both marine and alluvial origins; marine influences are reflected in the soil from the retreat of the sea in past eras, and alluvial deposits have been transported to the valley over the  course of time from the many streams that run through Bolgheri’s hillsides. 27  different soil units have been identified. Many of these soil units appear in very small areas and this is the main reason there isn’t one prevailing grape variety in Bolgheri. Many different varieties have been planted to best express the unique characteristics of each individual soil unit. Generally speaking, most of the soils in Bolgheri are sandy clay loam, alkaline, deep, with a good percentage of very fine gravel, in which it’s possible to find fossil fragments such as small shells that are visible even on the surface, proof of the geological history of the territory. 

Image: (L-R) Argentiera, Tuscan coastal wine region and Bolgheri DOC area in Castagneto Carducci.

Are there innovative winemaking techniques that Bolgheri producers have experimented with in recent times?

Having quite a brief oenological history compared to other renowned areas in the world, Bolgheri isn’t bound to firm and strict winemaking practices. This means that the area has always welcomed all sorts of experimentations aimed at improving the quality of the wines and to better express the terroir. If during the 90’s for example, the use of new oak barrique was quite common, today the producers tend to try different kinds of wood and also different sizes as well,  such as tonneaux. Even if they are not that widespread, also big barrels are present as well as amphorae or concrete vessels to age the wine.  

Can you tell us more about the sustainable practices that Bolgheri producers are working with?

In some of the most famous wine-growing areas around the world, the vine has become a monoculture, taking over the surrounding environment. In Bolgheri, most of the hillsides are still covered in Mediterranean forest, while the vineyards lie on the plain, where once were present other forms of agriculture.  It’s not a surprise that the first WWF Italian wildlife sanctuary was created in Bolgheri in 1959 by the same Mario Incisa della Rocchetta who was also the first WWF Italian president. Besides the very well-preserved state of the environment overall, in the vineyards organic or biodynamic viticulture is quite common, with almost half of the vineyard surface eligible for that. As said above, the Bolgheri microclimate is quite helpful in fighting the most common diseases, so human intervention doesn’t need to be as invasive as in other areas.

What are the biggest challenges and opportunities currently facing Bolgheri as a wine region, and how are you addressing them?

Probably the overall decrease in wine consumption, especially for red wines,  could be a challenge, but as long as we keep focusing on quality and culture instead of quantity, I think we can overcome that. Even in this complicated global situation, our wines are quite well sought and the producers are not struggling as much as in other places. 

What recent consumer trends have you observed about Bolgheri wines, and how are producers adapting to meet these demands? 

In recent years the trend among the producers has been to keep the fruit’s freshness as much as possible, working to achieve leaner and more elegant wines. The DOC  regulations are less tight than in other Italian areas because we want our producers to constantly experiment and strive towards working to achieve better outcomes. 

Image: (Middle) The president of the protection consortium, Albiera Antinori (Guado al Tasso - Marchesi Antinori), and (On the Left  & Right Side) The vice-presidents, Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta (Tenuta San Guido) and Cinzia Merli (Le Macchiole).

Apart from your major export markets, what are some emerging regions that you are targeting right now?

Bolgheri is a small area and has a small production, most of the major labels are sold on allocation so there is not a lot of room for new markets. However, one worth mentioning is South Korea. 

As the director of the Bolgheri Consorzio, what is your vision for the future of Bolgheri wines, and how do you plan to achieve it?

Well, my duty is to follow and develop the will of the producers, who are the real stakeholders of the Consorzio. Although I may have my own visions, it’s the producer’s one that matters. I think that Bolgheri is one of the biggest and most outstanding cases of history in the world of wine, for what it has achieved in such a short time. At this point I feel that even a small wrong step could be dangerous, so it’s important to move cautiously and respectfully to the path laid down for us by the founders of this appellation, knowing that our main duty is to preserve their heritage.

Image: Winners of Sommeliers Choice Awards 2024. (L-R) Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2020, San Felice Chianti Classico 2021 and Borgo Antico.

Conclusion:

As Bolgheri continues to evolve, it remains steadfast in its commitment to quality and innovation. Riccardo Binda’s insights reveal a region that respects its storied past while boldly embracing future possibilities. The success of iconic wines like Sassicaia, Ornellaia, and Masseto underscores Bolgheri's place in the global wine hierarchy, while ongoing efforts in sustainability and experimentation promise to keep it at the forefront of winemaking excellence. With its unique terroir and dedicated community of producers, Bolgheri is poised to maintain its reputation as a leader in fine wines, captivating connoisseurs, and casual drinkers alike with its elegant and distinctive offerings.

In conversation with Malvika Patel, Editor and VP, Beverage Trade Network