Champagne has always been more than just a drink—it’s a symbol. A symbol of celebration, success, and joy. But what happens when the world itself feels less celebratory? With exports down in 2024 and global uncertainty weighing on consumer confidence, the Champagne industry finds itself navigating challenging waters. At the forefront of these efforts is Maxime Toubart, president of the Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne, representing nearly 20,000 growers across 319 communes.

In this conversation, Toubart offers an unvarnished look at the realities facing Champagne today—from shifting global markets and economic pressures to sustainability and the vital role of small growers. He speaks candidly about how the industry is adapting, why some markets are showing promise despite setbacks, and how Champagne producers—large and small—can remain resilient in a rapidly evolving world.

Image: Maxime Toubart with Malvika Patel at WineParis 2025.

With nearly 20,000 members spread across 319 wine-growing communes, you’re representing a huge range of producers, from well-established houses to small family-run vineyards. How do you ensure that the smaller growers get the visibility and support they need in such a competitive market?

It's not the size that we look at. We define the importance of the market or the importance of the houses. I know small wine growers, really small wine growers, like maybe 10,000 bottles, who sell all over the world. If you are a small company then it does not mean that you must stay in France, just for the French market. You can sell everywhere. It's not the size that matters.

Champagne exports took a hit in 2024, dropping by 9.2%, with economic uncertainty dampening consumer demand. What’s being done to turn that around and reignite excitement for Champagne?

It's difficult because the Champagne market depends on enjoyment. When we are happy, we drink champagne. And at this moment, in this period, we are not very happy. A lot of wars are happening all over the world. The French political scene. It's crazy what's happened. We don't know. Champagne is a synonym for celebration and success. Today we are not enjoying and feeling like having a party and inviting friends. We hope maybe in a few months, maybe weeks, things will be better for us. 

Image: Champagne at WineParis 2025. 

While some of Champagne’s traditional markets have slowed down, are you seeing any bright spots elsewhere? Which new regions are showing promise, and how are you working to develop those markets?

Last year, we sold 80% of champagne in almost six countries. It's really important to sell more in the new countries. I can think of South Africa, South America, and there, Mexico and Brazil. We have a lot of possibilities to sell more champagne all over the world. What can we do? We can propose champagne, invite buyers, and tourism. But it's difficult for small vendors to go to Brasilia to open a shop and sell champagne there. Maybe have a website. In Reims, or Troyes, we can see a lot of tourism activities. A lot of people all over the world come to Champagne. I think it's important to research these people and propose.

Image: Tourists exploring a winery in the Champagne region. Source: Champagne

With inflation and production costs on the rise, many producers are feeling the squeeze. How is the Syndicat helping them stay profitable without sacrificing the quality and prestige that Champagne is known for?

Like today, we organized a lot of meetings with people from all over the world, from New York and Sweden, for example. Because we can see a lot of buyers today and a lot of champagne lovers who would like to speak with producers. You can explain how you make champagne, your places, your terroir, your process. And I think our job is to inform, to teach wine lovers to speak about Champagnes, about terroirs, and your story is important. 

Image: Champagne represented at Wine Paris 2022. (From L-R) Patrick Jourdain, President of the Union of Professional Wine Merchants, Marina Giuberti, Owner at DIVVINO with Maxime Toubart, President of the Champagne Winegrowers' Union

What specific sustainability initiatives is the Syndicat promoting among its members to ensure the long-term environmental and economic viability of Champagne production?

In Champagne, we have a special certification called VDC. In France, we have HVE, Haute Valeur Environnementale. We decided to have a specific certification in Champagne. After you are organic, you level up step by step. We say in Champagne that we prefer to have progress for everybody. There is a lot of work to qualify for the certification, for the evaluation. One has to check, what are my practices, are they good, are they not good?

Image: Champagne vineyard.

Conclusion

While Champagne may be synonymous with celebration, Maxime Toubart makes it clear that its future depends on more than just good times. The industry is at a crossroads, facing both significant challenges and new opportunities. Expanding into untapped markets, ensuring financial sustainability for growers, and adapting to environmental demands will all play a crucial role in shaping Champagne’s next chapter.

But as Toubart emphasizes, Champagne’s strength has always been in its diversity—of producers, terroirs, and stories. Whether it’s a small grower selling internationally or a major house reaching new markets, the essence of Champagne remains the same: craftsmanship, heritage, and the ability to bring people together, even in uncertain times.

In conversation with Malvika Patel, Editor and VP, Beverage Trade Network

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