Maison Simonnet-Febvre was established in 1840 by Jean Febvre, a barrel maker from the town of Montbard. Initially, the house was renowned for its sparkling Chardonnays from Chablis, now known as Crémants de Bourgogne. 

In 2003, Maison Louis Latour acquired Simonnet-Febvre and has since renovated the winemaking facilities. They installed new stainless-steel tanks and pneumatic presses. The vineyards have also been revitalized using sustainable practices similar to those used in Latour's 125-acre domain in the Côte d’Or.  

In 2018, Paul Espitalié became the company's director and winemaker. His leadership has brought new energy to the company, which maintains its independence by operating as a separate enterprise with its own unique style. You will find additional background on this unique Chablis house here.  

Image: Tasting at the Lutetia, Paul Espitalié in center.

Paul Espitalié was kind enough to answer several questions from our editor Charlie Leary. 

Charlie Leary: Please describe the unique history of Simonnet-Febvre as well as its current wine portfolio and group of vineyards and estates. 

Paul Espitalié: Over time in the nineteenth century, the Febvres acquired vineyard holdings in some of the best terroirs in Chablis. Today, Simonnet-Febvre produces a wide variety of wines from the various terroirs of Chablis. The Maison Simonnet-Febvre style is consistently emphasized across the entire range of wines, from the renowned Saint-Bris to the exceptional Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos.” 

We uphold our historical legacy as the sole winery in Chablis, producing a range of Crémants de Bourgogne. Owning 15 hectares of vineyards in the Auxois area, which is situated midway between Chablis and Beaune, Simonnet-Febvre strives to revive the former grandeur of this once magnificent terroir of Burgundy. 

Our old buildings in Chablis and our modern winery in Chitry-le-Fort allow us to fully showcase the unique character of the vineyards of Chablis while maintaining traditions from over a century ago. 

Charlie Leary: It appears that tradition is very important to Simonnet-Febvre but so too is innovation. How does looking at history help define the house's wine production and marketing strategy today? 

Paul Espitalié: We had the chance to be in the north of Burgundy, where we kept some interesting grape varieties, along with the classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There is the Sauvignon Blanc in the Village of Saint-Bris, the Cesar in Irancy, the Sacy in Chitry le Fort, and some Pinot Gris.  

For example, we produce Irancy, a red wine based on Pinot Noir. However, regulations allow us up to 10 percent of César, an ancient variety that has been grown in Burgundy for over 2000 years but is now very rare.  

Image: Cesar grape

We apply modern winemaking techniques to these old varieties, and some of them reveal great potential. They are good alternatives to more classical burgundy grapes. We added some varietal wines to our range, which is interesting to discover some unusual wines.  

Charlie Leary: Simonnet-Febvre has helped recreate or reinvigorate both grape varieties and appellations that were in danger of disappearing. Please describe something of this history. 

Paul Espitalié: It is essential for us to delve into the history of the region and the house. By doing so, we can glean valuable insights from the past. With technological advancements, we have successfully revived the Yonne region that had vanished after the phylloxera outbreak in the 19th century. 

Since the beginning of the Simonnet-Febvre company, we have made unusual wines: sparkling Chablis, Sauvignon Blanc, and Irancy. Even though Chablis was the main production, we always had a very large range of wines from the Yonne department. 

Charlie Leary: What is unique about Saint-Bris? Please describe this wine's terroir and production methods. 

Paul Espitalié: Saint-Bris is unique in the Burgundy region for its use of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, distinct Kimmeridgian limestone soils, and continental climate. The resulting wines are aromatic and crisp and exhibit a unique minerality that differentiates them from other Burgundy whites. 

Though having a Sauvignon Blanc-focused appellation in Burgundy may seem unusual, Saint-Bris is twice as far from Beaune as it is from Sancerre. It shares a similar terroir to much of the Loire Valley. 

Saint-Bris experiences a continental climate with cold winters and hot summers, which influences the grapes' ripening process and contributes to the wine's unique characteristics. The region is susceptible to spring frosts, which can impact the vines and affect the yield. 

The primary soils in Saint-Bris are composed of Kimmeridgian limestone and marl, rich in fossilized marine organisms, giving the wines a distinct mineral quality. The limestone soils provide excellent drainage, ensuring the vines do not sit in waterlogged conditions and promoting healthy root development. The vineyards are often planted on slopes to aid water drainage and provide better sun exposure, enhancing grape ripening and flavor concentration. 

Traditional viticulture practices are followed, emphasizing low yields to ensure high-quality grapes. The use of organic and biodynamic farming practices is on the rise, aiming to preserve the natural balance of the vineyard ecosystem. Hand-harvesting is common to ensure only the best grapes are selected. Winemakers in Saint-Bris often use gentle pressing to extract juice without harsh tannins or phenolics. Fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel tanks to retain the fresh, fruity, and aromatic qualities of the Sauvignon Blanc grapes. 

Charlie Leary: How does Simonnet-Febvre fit into the larger Louis Latour portfolio? Is Simonnet-Febvre reflective of Louis Latour's overall philosophy and mission? 

Paul Espitalié: Established in 1840, Simonnet-Febvre offers a rich history and traditional winemaking practices. This aligns with Louis Latour’s emphasis on heritage and quality, enhancing the portfolio's overall prestige.  

Simonnet-Febvre is renowned for its Chablis wines, which are characterized by their purity, minerality, and expression of terroir. This specialization adds a significant Chablis component to the Louis Latour portfolio, known primarily for its Burgundy wines, thus broadening the range and appeal. 

Both Simonnet-Febvre and Louis Latour prioritize quality and innovation in their winemaking processes. Simonnet-Febvre’s commitment to producing exceptional wines through careful vineyard management and innovative techniques aligns with Louis Latour’s philosophy, ensuring a consistent standard across the portfolio. Simonnet-Febvre’s focus on sustainable and environmentally friendly practices complements Louis Latour’s efforts towards sustainability. This shared commitment enhances the reputation of the portfolio as environmentally conscious and responsible. 

Simonnet Febvre is independent regarding viticulture and winemaking.  We are the specialist for Chablis wines in the Latour Group. 

Charlie Leary: How important are relationships with sommeliers and restaurants? Have you seen any changes in their regard over the past several years, and what do you see as the future in this regard? 

Paul Espitalié: Simonnet Febvre wines are dedicated to restaurants. We only sell our wine within the on-trade. All over the world, we have the same goal: to have our wines in the finest restaurant.  Sommeliers are for us the best ambassadors of our wines. Knowledge of wines ensures that our products will be served at the ideal time for the best pairings.  

Charlie Leary: How important are export markets to Simonnet-Febre? 

Paul Espitalié: Today, exports represent 80 % of our sales. The US market is our number 1.  

Charlie Leary: What do you view as the five greatest challenges facing wine production in your region over the next five years? How will Simonnet-Febvre confront and overcome such obstacles? 

Paul Espitalié: The first challenge we have today is the evolution of the climate. 20 years ago, we used to harvest at the end of September. Today, it’s early September. We now must be careful about keeping freshness in our wine. We must pick the grapes early in the morning for a low temperature. We must also be very reactive to start picking the grapes at the right date. In the past, we had to wait a long time to get enough sugar from the grapes. Today, we must be careful not to have too much sugar.  

We are facing increasingly violent climatic hazards:  spring frost, hail, storms, flooding, heat waves, and drought. We are increasing the protection against hail, and protecting the wine to prevent frost.  

The second challenge is to produce more sustainably. We are turning to organic viticulture and experimenting with resistant grape varieties that need fewer treatments.  

We are also working on reducing our business's CO2 impact by using lighter bottles, using only electric power for our processes, and driving electric cars.

Source of all images: Paul Espitalié/LinkedIn