Argentina has long been known as the land of Malbec, with this popular variety dominating shelf space in the U.S. market. Lately, we have also seen Cabernet Franc, which is thriving in the Uco Valley, make a bold entrance into the international market with some high marks from wine critics. But as you travel the country, meet small producers, and discover different wine shops, you quickly learn that Argentina is more than Malbec and Cab Franc.

One day, while visiting a family with generational wine-producing roots in Mendoza, they mentioned that they had a vineyard not far from mine in the Uco Valley, and we set up a visit. I was astonished to find 70+-year-old “trees” (as they use an overhead trellis system) of not only Malbec but also Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese. This chance encounter first opened my eyes to those guarding the history of forgotten grape varieties in the region and to mavericks constantly testing new varieties and making exceptional wines from them.

Luis Soria, and his viticulturist, Gonzalo Testa

One of these small producers, Luis Soria, and his viticulturist, Gonzalo Testa, invited us over for an asado to taste their lineup of wines from Delator de Sueños and Chañar Lorenzo. While I knew to expect a great meal of grilled meats, I had never imagined the variety of wines we would be sharing with them. As I would soon learn, Bonarda (originally Douce Noir from France) had long been present in the area after its introduction in the late 1800s. This densely fruit-forward grape was widely grown and consumed at asados like this in Argentina for a century but rarely left the country. Another amazing find that day, also from France, was an elegant Bequignol. Although planted around the same time as Bonarda, it has been largely replaced by more commercially successful varieties (Malbec), and only a few closely guarded vineyards remain. Finally, hidden among the great Malbecs and Cabernet Francs was another unique grape for the Uco Valley, a delicate and wonderful Pinot Noir. Although Pinot Noir from the cooler climate of Patagonia is more well-known, you can also find amazing examples of this wine from Salta in the north and Mendoza.

Another invitation from a friend, Mariana Onofri of Onofri Wines, led me even further down the path of wonderfully obscure wines from the Mendoza region. Once again paired with a wonderful asado, Mariana explained to me their vision to rescue classic varieties of the region while innovating to test new varieties that show promise. As close as I can remember, we tasted over a dozen wines that night, each showcasing a low-intervention style that really lets you appreciate the grape and the soil it comes from. With a deep bench of white grapes being grown, including Pedro Ximenez, Criolla Blanca, Marsanne, Roussanne, Malvasia Bianca, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, she is able to create some of the most impressive white blends I have tasted in the country, including her co-fermented White Field Blend. Also astounding were her light reds; both her Garnacha and Carignan were out of the norm for Mendoza but perfect for the international consumer seeking more light-bodied and refreshing wines. As we tasted many other wines, including Durif, Teroldego, Negroamaro, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, I thought our wonderful night had come to an end. But there was more... dessert was served with an amazing Amber made from her Roussane grapes. The dry and tannic wine, made by fermentation with skins, seeds, and 20% stems, was the perfect pairing for the sweet dessert and the perfect end to an adventure of virtually unknown wine varieties for this area.

The secret is slowly getting out about another pair of producers in the Uco Valley who made it their mission to seek out forgotten vineyards in the Uco Valley. Federico Isgro and Santiago Bernasconi founded Bira Wines in 2017 to produce red wines from Italian varieties brought over by the large number of Italians who immigrated to Argentina in the late 1800s and early 1900s. My first introduction to this brand was in my favorite wine store in Buenos Aires, Lo de Joaquin Alberdi (JA!), where they told me they had an amazing Sangiovese from the Uco Valley. I could hardly believe my taste buds when we opened the bottle of Bin Otto, and I was instantly transported back to Tuscany—I had to meet this producer. Luckily, these winemakers are as approachable as their wines, and I secured a dinner with Federico in Mendoza. There, I learned of the vineyards they found in Tupungato with Sangiovese planted in 1967 and 1970 and Malvasia from 1964. He also told me of their Syrah vineyard in San Carlos which was 45 years old, which has become a key component in their blends. Although I have never fallen out of love with their Bin Otto, I have equally enjoyed their other blends, including the Merlot/Sangiovese-based Tano and their unique Malvasia.

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As we do tastings with some of these unique varietals in the United States, consumers are pleasantly surprised by the high quality of the wines and are also excited that they are able to purchase some of Argentina’s best-kept secrets. Of course, it is a lot of extra work to get new varieties in front of the consumer and ultimately into their carts, but that work is also a lot of fun!

This article has been written by our Sommeliers Choice Awards brand and category ambassador Zane Holscher who represents Argentina.

The submissions for the 2025 Sommeliers Choice Awards are now open. Calling wineries from Argentina to enter before October 31 to save with super early bird pricing.