In this exclusive interview with Aldo Ramón Aguirre, one of the owners of Vinícola El Fortín, the Sommeliers Choice Awards explores the fascinating journey of Rancho El Fortín’s transformation from a historic cattle and horse ranch into a boutique winery. Founded in 1929, the ranch’s winemaking venture began in 2007 and has since blossomed under the guidance of Ramón and his family. From overcoming the challenges of a remote desert location to embracing innovative techniques and sustainable practices, he shares insights into the winery’s growth, its award-winning wines, and the potential of Mexican wine on the global stage.

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Rancho El Fortín has a long history dating back to 1929. What inspired the transition from ranching to winemaking in 2007, and what challenges did you face in this transformation?

Rancho El Fortín has been an active cattle and horse ranch since its founding in 1929, and it remains so today. The transition into winemaking began as a small passion project initiated by my father in 2007. Over time, we gradually expanded, growing into the boutique winery we are today. While winemaking is just one of our divisions—alongside ranching and our olive orchards—we take great pride in producing high-quality wines that reflect our dedication and craftsmanship.

How has Don Francisco Milmo Madero’s expertise influenced the winemaking philosophy of Vinícola El Fortín?

Don Pepe Milmo was instrumental in shaping the winemaking journey of Vinícola El Fortín. He first recognized the potential of the Fortín Valley for viticulture after noticing two old grapevines near our main house. The vines thrived naturally, and the quality of their fruit convinced him that the land was well-suited for a vineyard. Encouraged by his insight, my father decided to plant our first vines. When it came time to produce our wines, Casa Madero supported us by processing our harvest for the first three years. Eventually, we brought in Roberto Díaz as our dedicated winemaker, and he has been an integral part of our winery ever since.

Image: Vinícola El Fortín grape vines

What role does the Ramón Valdés family play in shaping the winery’s direction today?

The Ramón Aguirre family, made up of five brothers and two sisters, remains actively involved in the ranch’s operations. The winery is primarily managed by my eldest brother, Chuy Ramón, and myself, Aldo Ramón. In addition to overseeing winemaking, I also lead the cattle and horse operations at Rancho El Fortín. While each family member contributes in different ways, our shared commitment ensures the continued growth and success of both the ranch and the winery.

Also read: Uncorking Success: A Conversation with Matt Hedges, President of Vino del Sol

The Coahuila desert presents unique climatic conditions. How do these factors influence the character of your wines?

Our climate plays a crucial role in shaping the distinct character of our wines. Unlike other regions in Coahuila, we benefit from hot days and cool nights, which help balance grape ripening and preserve acidity. Our land remains largely untouched, with pristine streams flowing through it. The upper mountain areas are covered with pines, while the lower valley has more arid, desert-like conditions. This diverse terroir, combined with our careful vineyard management, sets our wines apart. That said, working in such a remote location comes with challenges. Being deep in the mountains, transporting supplies in and out is difficult, and moving wine requires careful planning—we transport it at night to take advantage of cooler temperatures. The journey spans 82 kilometers of rough, unpaved roads. Additionally, finding skilled labor willing to stay for extended periods can be challenging. Thank goodness for our long-term team, whose expertise and dedication make it all possible.

Can you share insights into your vineyard management practices and how they contribute to the quality of your wines?

Our vineyard management practices are rooted in a deep understanding of what the soil and plants need to thrive. We focus on proper fertilization, precise pruning, and managing the fruit load during the maturation process, ensuring that each plant produces the ideal amount of fruit without being overwhelmed. By maintaining this balance, we allow the vines to consistently deliver high-quality grapes with the perfect concentration and weight year after year. These simple yet effective practices are essential in crafting wines that reflect the true character of our terroir.

Image: Vinícola El Fortín vineyard

Are there any particular grape varieties that thrive exceptionally well in your terroir, and why?

Malbec has proven to be the most successful grape variety in our terroir. It consistently produces excellent yields per plant, and the expression and aromatic profile we achieve are superior to those of other varieties. The structure of the wine is exceptional—rich, complex, and well-balanced—making Malbec a standout in our vineyard and a key contributor to the high quality of our wines.

Your wines have received prestigious awards. What do you believe sets them apart from others in the region?

We believe our wines truly capture the essence of northern Mexico. They feature a strong structure and a rich, deep aromatic profile, with notes of plum, jelly, pepper, and a blend of spices. At the same time, they remain elegant, with a well-balanced body that complements the complexity of their flavors. This unique combination of boldness and finesse sets our wines apart from others in the region, earning them recognition and acclaim.

Have you introduced any innovative techniques in your winemaking process that contribute to your wines’ distinctiveness?

Yes, we’ve implemented several innovative techniques to ensure the quality and distinctiveness of our wines. From the start of the winemaking process through to bottling, we control the temperature of the grapes, must, and wine using an advanced chiller system. Our fully equipped laboratory allows us to monitor every key parameter throughout the process, ensuring precision and consistency. Additionally, we use a modern cleaning system to sterilize all our equipment and tanks before and after use, maintaining the highest standards of hygiene and ensuring the purity of our wines.

Sustainability is a growing focus in the wine industry. What sustainable practices does Vinícola El Fortín implement in the vineyard and cellar?

Sustainability is a key priority for us, especially given the dry conditions of our region. One of our primary sustainable practices is the recycling of water. We have a system in place that recirculates used water, allowing us to irrigate other crops and trees on the property. Additionally, all byproducts from the wine fermentation process are repurposed to enhance the structure and fertility of the soil, reducing waste and contributing to the overall health of our vineyard. These practices help us maintain a balanced and environmentally responsible operation.

Also read: The Heart of Oregon Wines: Michael Bacus Discusses Winemaking and Innovation at Bacus Vineyards

How has Mexican wine perception changed over time, and where do you see it going globally?

A few years ago, Mexican wine was often viewed as being of low quality, with the best wines typically coming from Europe, Chile, Argentina, or Australia. However, perceptions have significantly shifted in recent years. Consumers are now much more interested in and informed about local wines, exploring different wine-producing regions and the unique varieties cultivated across the country. There are also organizations such as the Comité Vitivinícola de Coahuila and the Consejo Mexicano Vitivinícola that are working tirelessly to raise awareness about the diverse wine projects emerging in Mexico. As interest continues to grow, we believe Mexican wines will increasingly gain recognition on the global stage, celebrated for their distinctive character and high quality.

Image: Vinícola El Fortín winery

Are there any upcoming releases or projects that you’re particularly excited about? 

We’re always excited about creating new labels and exploring different wines. Currently, we’re particularly eager to introduce our new white wine project. We’re planning to produce a fresh Verdejo, which will showcase that El Fortín is not only about red wines. This new venture is a step forward in expanding our portfolio and offering a broader range of wines to our customers. We can’t wait to share it with the world!

What message would you like to convey to wine buyers, sommeliers, and retailers who may not yet be familiar with Vinícola El Fortín?

We invite you to discover this emerging Mexican wine project, where each bottle is crafted with dedication, care, and a deep respect for the environment. Our wines are internationally awarded, produced in small batches with a focus on quality, and are a true representation of northeastern Mexico’s unique terroir. We are proud of our boutique production, and we believe our wines offer a distinctive experience that will appeal to discerning wine buyers, sommeliers, and retailers looking for something exceptional and authentic.

Header image sourced from Vinícola El Fortín

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